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PostPosted: April 11th, 2012, 10:45 am 
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on 3/29/12 I put into service a new 618trac with the 20hp kubota on 4/6/12 I received a call informing me that the machine would run for 10 to 15 minutes then the engine would die. after several questions. the customer told me that they had to jump it to get it running again. AHH somethings going on with the charging system! so i gave them a loaner and brought the new one (less than 27 hrs) back to my shop. what i found was no voltage being resupplyed to the battery. my first thought was the alternator/dynamo, i replaced it with a known to be good one from anouther machine. no differance so i took out the wiring sch and traced for any broken wires. none found. so i orderd a new voltage regulator/ rectifier. my question is has anyone else come across this? i have looked online with no luck but is there a way to test the regulator? is there a better way to check the charging system on this machine outher than looking for 13.5 to 14.6 volts. the reg is about two weeks out so if anyone has any outher ideas that would fix the machine i can cancel it :?:


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PostPosted: April 16th, 2012, 1:55 pm 
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Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
If you charge the battery fully, will the machine continue to run?

There are more thorough ways to check the output of the charging system, but the voltage test usually works very well to see if the charging system is working. The Dyno output is AC, and around 19 - 23 volts as I recall. About the only other components in the circuit are the junction board and the key switch. If the junction board has been exposed to water, or for some reason has a lot of oily grime or contamination that can damage electronics on it, that can cause problems, but basically the power just flows through the junction board.

I would take the approach of looking up the schematic and making sure power is present where is should be before I ordered new components. Electronic components do sometimes fail, but it is unusual to see one go bad that quickly.


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PostPosted: April 16th, 2012, 3:04 pm 
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yes when i got it back to the shop charging the battery was the first thing i did. i also preformed a load test on the battery then regharged. batt passed. the machine will run longer on a full charge but as voltage in the battery drops the machine starts runing like crap then dies. i saw the circuit board you were refering to and also noticed 2 fuses and did a continuity check on them. fuses passed. the board also looked clean and dry everything still looks new ! as far as i can tell. I do have voltage everywhere i should. its just always battery voltage. i am going to leave the rectifer on order for now. if you have anymore ideas i will be glad to try them. thanks for your help Josh.


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PostPosted: April 19th, 2012, 7:01 am 
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What is the voltage output of the Dyno? This would be the AC voltage straight out of the two wires from the dyno at the voltage regulator, with the regulator disconnected. Also, what is your battery voltage engine not running/engine running? It sounds like you are on the right track. You might be sure to look at each pin inside the white plastic plugs coming out of the circuit board to make sure they are all the way seated, not being pushed out of the socket.

John


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PostPosted: April 19th, 2012, 12:54 pm 
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When i checked it i had 28 volts coming from the dyno. with my volt meter attached if i am reading say 12.4 volts with the engine running when i kill it, it still reads 12.4 volts. good idea with the pins i will take a look at them. thanks SS


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PostPosted: May 4th, 2012, 11:57 am 
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UPS just showed up with my reg/ rectofier. I installed it and I now have a solid 14.68 volts being supplied to the battery. looks like problem solved. thanks for the help.


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PostPosted: May 7th, 2012, 6:42 am 
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Thank you for posting your issue and the results! This will be a good resource for someone else in the future.

John


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