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 Post subject: T900 fuel tank removal
PostPosted: January 16th, 2015, 4:34 pm 
The tanks in our T900 machines can be a bit frustrating to change if you are ever unfortunate enough to have to do that :x . Dave Sampson with Vari-Tech was kind enough to document his experience swapping tanks out and sent it to us. Hopefully it can help someone save themselves a little head scratching.

1. there are to small pieces of angle iron welded to the frame on the left side of the tank (used to hold the tank down. I had to cut 1/4" off of the one closest to the power pack because the tank had collapsed so far that it would not pull up past the tab.
2. for my particular harness, I also had to remove the muffler for clearance

This time I lifted the power pack 9 inches. but the tank still wouldn't clear the edge of the frame because one of the chain links from my lift harness was in the way. I didn't want to lift the assy. any further for safety so I was able to use a pry bar to move the tank past the chain link.
I'm going to try to fine tune my methods on the next 2 tanks. I believe that if I can safely lift the assy. another 1-3" that there wont be any clearance problems.

T900 fuel tank removal:

1. remove carriage
2. remove front hood
3. remove rear hood completely including disconnect backup alarm connector, both hood cables, and rear hood pivot shaft
4. drain hydraulic oil and remove filter 4b. pump or siphon fuel tank till empty
5. disconnect battery
6. disconnect tank vent hose from fuel filler neck
7. remove fuel filler hose assembly
8. disconnect fuel sending unit
9. disconnect fuel pressure and return hoses from tank 10. disconnect and plug hydraulic return hose coming from cooler at fitting above fuel pump
10. disconnect and plug all return hoses that connect to the hydraulic filter head, then disconnect and plug both pressure hoses on top of the hydraulic pump
11. disconnect and plug 2 hydraulic return lines directly in front of left front corner of fuel tank
12. disconnect fuel pump and fuel heater connectors at pump
13. disconnect throttle solonoid
14. remove wiring harness bracket next to throttle solonoid
15. disconnect glow plug wire
16. disconnect fuel shut off solenoid connector
17. disconnect all starter wires
18. remove bolt securing 40 and 60 amp fuses to frame near alternator
19. disconnect all alternator wires 20. disconnect oil pressure sending unit
21. after harness is disconnected: slide harness out from between fuel filter and throttle solonoid
22. remove (4) 1/2 x 4 1/2" shcs from perimeter of engine base weldment
23. remove (2) 5/8 x 4" bolts from front engine mount
24. remove (2) 1/4" hwhtf bolts that hold battery bracket weldment to hydraulic tank
25. as you are looking down at the old tank opposite the engine side, there are 2 small angle iron brackets welded to the frame rail that holds the left side of the tank down. the old tank in our T900 had collapsed so far that it was 1/4" wider at the sides. this prevented the tank from moving upwards. I cut off 1/4" from the bottom of the outer bracket (next to the hydraulic tank) and this allowed enough clearance to get the tank out.
26. lift carefully until there is enough clearance to pull tank forward and pivot up and out

PostPosted: January 26th, 2015, 10:27 am 
Here is another tip from Dave:

If the fuel pump bracket is removed it allows you to get away with lifting the power pack a little less and gives room to slide the tank out between the power pack and the chassis. This saved quite a bit of time he said.

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